Ben Ranken in conversation
Ben Ranken and Sally Richardson’s vineyard is nestled in the far east corner of the Macedon Ranges, at 600m above sea level, sitting just below Mt William’s summit it is one of the highest vineyards in Victoria. The property is an easy hour and a half drive from Melbourne CBD, hidden at the end of a dirt track enclosed totally by gums. Whilst freezing fog descends from the summit above, in the warmth of their kitchen with early gray and cookies for sustenance we settle in for a chat.
What an entrance, tell me; where exactly are we?
How great’s the dirt track!? We love it, it really buggers the cars! We’re actually right on the watershed of the Great Dividing ranges, water runs north and south from either side of the property. Just above us is an ancient quarry which the Wurundjeri people used to mine for greenstone. Axes from the quarry have been found all along the trade route to Darwin, dating back 1500 years. We’ve been told the going rate for an axe head was one possum skin coat, which would be about 30 possums in total. Quite a fee! They open the quarry annually during the Lancefield Megafauna (think giant wombats, roos and emus) Festival in November. The quarry is open for tours led by one of the elders.
Growing your own vineyard is no easy feat, how and why did Wilimee come to exist?
We do it for the kids. Sally and I both grew up in the country and we loved it. We wanted our kids to grow up in the fresh air, with a respect for nature, the freedom to be creative and most importantly resilient, as all country kids seem to be. The property used to be called Portree Vineyard, one night over a drink back in 2013 a friend mentioned it was for sale. Six months later we moved in, one week later it was Christmas and two days later our second daughter arrived! Inspired by the cultural significance of the quarry and the land we’re so fortunate to be custodians of (our vines grow in some of the oldest soils in Australia) we changed the name to Wilimee, from the local dialect Wilimee Mooring which means ‘place of stone axe’. Our labels are a creative extension of our passion for the soil; two elegant and timeless designs which represent the two unique soils on which we farm. They don’t give much away but we hope their colour and creativity spark conversation amongst those who drink them.
Old soil you say, tell me more...
The Great Dividing Ranges were once, millennia ago the seabed of the floor. Years of tectonic activity resulted in the plates forming the ranges, and today we’re now fortunate enough to live on those same seabed soils. The vineyard is only five hectares but it is divided between two hugely different soil types on which we grow grapes to make two wines. Pinot Noir grows on the granite soil and the Chardonnay grows on the deep red Cambrian soils, which are synonymous with the Heathcote region. For me, the vineyard is paramount to creating beautiful wines. I work constantly to improve the soil and better understand it. I’m actually starting a new experiment in which I’m grafting Chardonnay shoots from the vineyard to Pinot Noir rootstock, and vice versa; Pinot Noir shoots onto Chardonnay rootstock. Soon I’ll have four wines; two Chardonnay grown from the different soils, and two Pinot grown from the same two soil. I’m really curious to see how the same variety contrasts and compares as a result of the soil on which it’s grown.
You’re not just experimenting in the vineyard though?
No! I’m experimenting with underwater maturation, so right now there’s a couple of bottles of Pinot Noir lying at the bottom of a big tank of water… An old boss of mine once drank a Spanish white wine which had been matured underwater. I was intrigued and inspired! Today, I only know of five other producers doing it, they’re all in Europe and none of them have matured wines past two years. Our wines are maturing for five years, so the first vintage in 2016 will be released next year. Compared to cellar maturation, underwater there is no light, no oxygen, the temperatures are consistent but the biggest unknown is the effect of such high pressure. I’ve kept back some stock from each vintage so I can compare the same wine against cellar and water maturation.
What’s your philosophy in the vineyard and winery?
It’s all about the vineyard. Ironically Chardonnay and Pinot Noir are known as winemaker grapes. The influences in the winery are easily seen in the final wine; WIlimee Chardonnay and Wilimee Pinot Noir are no different, they reveal a total absence of winemaker influence! In the vineyard I follow organic and biodynamic farming methods, but I’m not ruled by them. For example I don’t use copper, organically certified, as I really don’t think it does the vineyard any good. I do use kelp though, it’s hugely beneficial in strengthening the vine leaves and the soil loves it. I rack the wine and bottle during the new moon because the stronger gravitational force compacts the sediment more, meaning clearer wines which I don’t need to filter or fine. My wild fermented by natural yeast and undergo wild malolactic fermentation. Besides the oak barrels in which they mature I add nothing else besides a bit of sulphur.
You spent many years in France, did the frogs spark your love for Pinot and Chardonnay?
Partly Burgundy, but I also grew up around them. My parents planted the second vineyard up in Tumbarumba, whilst they didn’t make wine I was in the vineyard a lot as a kid and after France I spent time in the Yarra. What inspired me most from France were the unique sub-region cultural differences which exist. I was fortunate to work in Bordeaux, Burgundy, Provence and actually all over for a year as a flying winemaker. Every village has their own unique bread, cheese, wine and customs. In Provence we had rose for breakfast and Burgundy afternoon wines and siestas in the shade of the tree. I also have a soft spot for Italian wines; I love a Barolo, a Barbaresco but you can’t go past a good Brunello.
A note on creativity in the industry and the region…
We’re fortunate to live in a country where produce is in abundance and anyone, young or old, experienced or not, can buy excess fruit into which they can craft their own wine. We’re blessed to work in an industry which embraces such creativity but that creativity comes with a responsibility to authenticity, something so easily lost in slick marketing. I also work as winemaker down the road at Mount Monument vineyard too; everyone needs the day job! The owner designed the magnificent Mona building down in Hobart and is now working on his own, Macedon sized design which will be hugely exciting for the region when it’s open to the public.
Ben Ranken’s ancestor George Ranken planted the first vines in Australia in the 1850’s. Today, continuing the family name Ben reached the top 50 Young Gun of Wine the last three years. To buy wines direct book a tasting here or buy online here.