Justin & Lisa Jenkins in conversation
One early Saturday morning in the midst of summer, I sneak onto the Eastlink and cruise out of the city to a backdrop of huge dark grey, murderous looking clouds. The suburban sprawl gives way to industrious and empty plains but then the hills start to sprout, trees hug the road and brown signs dot the road side with quaint names like Gooseneck pottery and Karingal Berries. True to their promise, the clouds let loose lashings of rain which eventually subdued to spatterings and drizzle.
Normally I come armed with a list of questions, write lots of notes and take heaps of photos. I didn’t this time; partly because I was a little jaded from the merriment of the night before, partly because of the rain but mainly because the conversation flowed thick and fast from vineyards, to car, to donuts back in the comfort of Lisa and Justin’s home. The conversation was full of insight, inspiration and wisdom. I share my favourite parts of the conversation below…
The land
Justin returned to his childhood roots when he and Lisa moved to South Gippsland. But the roots of his past will soon be accompanied by new roots, for Lisa and Justin’s story is only just beginning. And besides themselves, the other key character in the story is the land, over which they feel a deep responsibility and connection, a connection which is expressed in their ‘Nostalgia’ Pinot Noir for the comfort, longing and loss the land can make you feel. Justin believes we don’t live long enough, for if we did live a little longer we would bear witness to the damage our actions are inflicting on our planet. Their respect for the land translates into organic farming practices, a practice rarely seen in Gippsland because the climate is so wet. Such green and luscious landscapes are the product of high rainfall; rain which is good for the ducks but also good for disease. For many, such disease pressure makes organic farming impossible, but Justin and Lisa disagree. They can confirm it’s definitely not easy, and whilst it demands much more work they believe it’s imperative to do what is best for the land.
Only Lisa and Justin and the Wine Farm (a firm friend of this community) up the road pursue organic farming in the region.
The wet summer season brought in by La Nina has kept Justin busy. As we walk through the vineyard, Justin points to the vivacious canopy that he’s spending all his time keeping under control. The Pinot Noir berries are tightly packed and bright green, waiting for a little more sun to turn them purple. Sun, which as the morning continues, clearly isn’t scheduled for today. As the rain starts to fall again - we jump in the car and head over to their new block of land on the other side of Leongatha.
Personal growth & the evolution of business
Justin is excited to work with the newly leased vineyard, but there are constraints around decisions when you don’t own the vines yourself and don’t have total control. In pursuit of the freedom that underpins their brand, Lisa and Justin recently secured their own block of land, which they’re about to plant after letting the land rest for a year.
But, before we launch into their future plans, I wanted to hear how their story began.
Justin, the son of a Welsh butcher, was a dab hand as a teenager with a kitchen knife, which led him to the kitchens of Melbourne and his first roles in hospitality. Justin, like Lisa who is also a talented chef both worked back of house but eventually moved front of house where they were fortunate to try many of the world’s benchmark wines. After a few years working amongst wine Justin became curious to learn more about the winemaking and production of it. After a quick call with friend Ben Haines at Mt Langhi he was locked in for his first vintage in 2015. Justin said he loved everything about it, soaking up all the information like a sponge and soon enough he wanted to make his own wine. He tried to negotiate a small parcel of Barbera, but settled for Sangiovese. He said he tended to the juice like a newborn baby, giving it all - if not too much! - of his attention. The outcome he said, was a deliciously juicy sangi-pants but more importantly a desire to learn and make more. The rest, as they say is history.
Justin continued working with parcels of grapes from friends and vineyards local to Melbourne. As his passion grew so did the parcels of grape he sourced. Fleet’s core philosophy (and name) emulates the fleeting character of a parcel of grapes, from a specific site in a single vintage; a fleeting moment that can’t be replicated, and should be celebrated. Eventually he felt a strong enough pull to the countryside that he spoke to his dad about it. His advice was to do what he loves, if you do that, you’ll be good at it and hopefully...in time...successful. Eventually the time came to make a call and they decided to take the plunge and move east to lay their roots as a family, and as winemakers.
Risk and reward
The risks weren’t small, but Justin believes there’s no reward without risk, and that’s what makes it worth it. The planting of a new vineyard is no exception, but they’ve taken every measure to reduce the risk by understanding every inch of the plot through soil pit testing, solar irradiation, electromagnetic pulses, direct daylight hours calculation, elevation and slope measurements. And the reward? The chance to plant the grapes you love, in your own patch of dirt and watch it grow. With the new leased vineyard and their own vineyard in time, their production volume will increase threefold over the next few years. As their production grows so does the range and the possibilities on how to fill it; which varieties, under which label and their purpose. It’s fascinating to be privy to the creative thought process that sparks the origin of a new wine.
Just as their labels have evolved over the years, I ask if their philosophy will change as their brand evolves from fleeting parcels of grapes to home grown grapes with long term potential. Justin says the word embrace comes to mind when thinking about their new plot of land; embracing the land and the future with a willingness and enthusiasm to learn.
The craft
For many winemaking is a science, but for Justin whose background is in fine art, winemaking is a craft. His winemaking is framed within the creative process; building an awareness of evaluation and action points around a subject matter, followed by an interpretive process which arrives at a desired point of completion. Grapes, Justin’s own subject matter, are living, and whilst vines are forgiving enough in the face of error, the outcome is not always as anticipated. But Justin celebrates each unique trait in the wine, and believes that is what distinguishes craft wine from commercial wine.
Both Justin and Lisa’s old jobs afforded them the opportunity to try some of the world’s best wines, giving them a strong technical awareness of a wine’s structure. Something they have taken and merged with their own palates, preference and intuition to craft some truly stunning wines. Their Pinot Gris is everything you hope for and nothing you fear for; crisp and fresh with an awesome length (and colour!) The Chardonnay is oaked by some of Europe’s premier league barrels, so subtle is the influence I didn’t even notice it! Pinot Noir is both their favourite grape to work with; the one we try is 100% whole bunch but there’s no stalkiness to it, just beautifully bright fruit and so much energy. Lisa said she’d love to add a pet nat to the portfolio so they could drink it with local Gippsland oysters!
Teamwork
I asked Justin how often he’s satisfied with the end result, to which he replied ‘not often!’ But that’s the beauty of working in a team for them both; the chance to share learnings, discuss and feedback. Often he and Lisa have different opinions on the wines which brings about a hearty debate and reassurance in times of need. Sat in their kitchen, drinking their wine and hearing their story it’s evident they are the strongest of teams; both as partners, as parents and as business owners.
The importance of teamwork is symbolised in one of their labels with a simple but elegant drawing of a lichen. Yes, a lichen! Often confused for a fungus, lichens are symbiotic organisms, which means two organisms functioning as one. Lisa is currently studying a Bachelor of Viticulture and she said when she studied the lichen in botany, it struck her as the perfect symbol of an interconnected world. Their labels are simple but striking, the work of local graphic designer Pip Howard.
Justin says they’re looking to grow their small team in the near future, and he hopes to offer someone else the same opportunity Ben Haines offered him, encouraging more young talent to step up and make wine. He said it’s important for the industry, but admits another pair of hands and opinion will add a new dimension to their team. Just like surfing, Justin says trying to hold his position in the break is hard on his own, easier with two, and even easier with 3, 4 or 5 others. Things are just better in teams!
Gippsland is a beautiful region with bundles to see, taste and indulge in. It’s growing momentum, so visit now before the hoards arrive and get to know one of the wine region’s most inspiring couples. Thank you Justin and Lisa!
Fleet Wines can be bought direct through their website, or at the following stockists in Victoria:
TBC